The modern stylization of the national costume is extremely popular in Buryatia. Degal stylizations are used different lengths, as evening dress, outerwear. The original cut of the sleeves, collars, with inserts with enger - a stepped pattern of colored stripes, cuffs are used.
Fabrics also deserve attention - silk, satin with drawings and textured embroidery, interwoven with silver and gold threads, traditional bright colors - blue, red, green, yellow, turquoise.
Stylizations of the Buryat costume in the form of an evening dress, blouse, coat, embroidery with ornaments, traditional patterns are popular in modern fashion, satin ribbons and braid are used for decoration. Jewelry made of silver with corals, turquoise, agate is actively used.
In everyday life, more and more often you can see stylized national shoes in the form of ugg boots, high fur boots, and boots. As well as hats with fur in the national style in combination with natural leather, suede.
Traditional Buryat costume worn on major national holidays - Sagaalgan ( White month- New Year's Eve lunar calendar), Surkharban (summer sports festival), theatrical performances, religious holidays, meeting honored guests.
Modern models of wedding dresses in the national style are becoming increasingly popular. Many artists use the national Buryat costume for their stage image.
In recent years, inter-regional competitions of fashion designers have been held, using stylized national costumes and ethnic motifs in their collections. Many interesting models from such shows fall into the “masses” and become popular with young people.
fashion images
Unusually warm and cozy models made of sheep wool with the addition of cashmere are very useful in Siberian frosts. It can be a trouser version with a stylized top for the national Buryat costume - a stand-up collar, a stepped border on the chest, an unusual sleeve, and a hood. Or this is an option with a soft silhouette, tight-fitting, but not restricting movement, with a maxi-length skirt or dress, with ethnic patterns. Wool is a thin and original material that gives warmth in the cold and breathes in the heat. By adding an original ethnic-style headdress, your look will become unforgettable.
An original outfit in white with silver contrasting edging and accents is suitable for an evening out and as a wedding dress. The interesting design of the bodice and the asymmetry of the shoulder with a silver edging looks like a stepped enger insert, a side ornament at the waist and at the place where the cape is fastened gives ethnicity and airiness to the image. The vertical silver stripe on the skirt again evokes national motifs. At the same time, the length of the dress above the knees does not look defiant. By adding unique head jewelry with silver side pendants, you will definitely be irresistible.
Another look for an evening out or a wedding celebration in white with gold will be unforgettable. From the national Buryat costume there is a detachable skirt with a top, original gold embroidery in the form of an ornament, national jewelry - bracelets, a breast necklace and a rich headdress. The dress has short sleeves trimmed with gold piping, as is the bodice. A golden high headdress with an ornament on the forehead and pendants gives femininity, stateliness and chic. The pomp and length of the skirt will emphasize the slimness of the waist.
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The Buryat national costume is part of the centuries-old culture of the Buryat people. It reflects its culture, aesthetics, pride and spirit. The costume of one of the multilingual peoples inhabiting Transbaikalia and the Baikal region has always attracted the attention of travelers, because the Buryat costume reflected the historical fate of the population of these regions, as unique as the landscape and nature.
Buryat clothing was made by both women and men. The tailor had to have a lot of knowledge and skills, in particular, he was an artist and an embroiderer, glued and quilted, dressed skins, knew the ornament, colors. Clothing-passport of a person indicates his tribal (ethnic) class affiliation and a symbol that characterizes his social significance.
At the end of the 19th - beginning of the 20th centuries. Buryats kept traditional clothes. But already in the middle of the 20th century, the national costume could be found less and less. Nowadays, the Buryat national costume can be found only at festivities or in stage performances. But the national costume, its embroidery, cut is a whole repository of the wealth of the national culture of the Buryats. Entire generations of people do not know their own culture, do not remember the precepts of their ancestors, do not understand the beauty of the national costume. This means that the younger generation should not only recognize the Buryat national costume, but also know, cherish and store for future generations.
Target- to draw the attention of the younger generation to the Buryat national costume.
Tasks:
1) Study the history of the development of the national costume.
2) To study the varieties of national costume.
3) To acquaint with the old national costume of the Ayuev family.
Relevance of our research is expressed in the popularization of the national costume for the subsequent development of interest in the Buryat culture. Object of study is the Buryat national costume. Subject of study- a kind of Buryat national costume. Research hypothesis- Buryat national costume is the memory of ancestors and culture for posterity.
1. Study of the Buryat national costume
1. 1 History of development and varieties of the Buryat national costume
The Buryat costume was the result of a long process of development from simple to complex, from utilitarian to aesthetic. The material and manufacturing technique depend on the level of development of the economy and culture. The main occupation of the Buryats was cattle breeding. Sheepskin, leather and other processed raw materials were used to make the costume. The skins of animals have also been used for a long time. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, there was a partial displacement of traditional leathers and skins and the predominant use of Russian and Western-made fabrics. The latter is especially characteristic of the Buryats of the Baikal region.
In Transbaikalia, along with Russian-made fabrics, they continued to partially use Chinese cotton and silk threads. The Buryats used fabrics in an elegant suit; the quality of the material and decorations distinguished the costume of the rich. It should be noted the well-known uniformity of the Buryat costume. Clothing cut off at the waist is a feature of the Buryat costume.
The traditional costume, both for men and women, consisted of underwear - a shirt (samsa), trousers with a wide step (umden), outerwear (degel) with the smell of the left floor on the right with a specific headdress and shoes for the Buryats. Women's clothing is less subject to change and, as a more conservative option, has retained many of the old features. The study of the cut of parts of the costume showed the presence of two types of underwear: open (morin samsa) and deaf (urbaha, umasi). The open shirt, in essence, is a short dressing gown with the smell of the left floor, it had the name "kuvankhi"; "tervich". The deep shirt appeared among the Buryats under the influence of the neighboring Russian population, for whom such a shirt is typical. There were two types of men's clothing. The first type includes the loose clothing of pastoralists - nomads with a characteristic smell of "zhedekhi" (men's fur coat). The second type includes outerwear of the Buryats of the Cis-Baikal region with a straight cut in front, with a hem expanding towards the bottom. The sleeves tapering to the bottom were sewn to a straight-cut camp. hallmark the men's suit had belts. They differed in material, technique and purpose: knitted, woven, woven from hair, wool. More elegant ones were made of leather with silver-plated plates. The study of them leads to the conclusion that the ulitarian purpose, the belt was obligatory as a talisman, then the belt is a sign of manhood, a distinctive sign in the service hierarchy. The ornament of the metal plates of the belts was deeply traditional and reflected the worldview of its creators. These motifs are common with the ornaments of other peoples of Central Asia, South Siberia and characterize different historical periods. Headdresses were varied, along with traditional home-made Buryats also wore purchased ones. They varied by region. In Transbaikalia, the headdress was associated with family affiliation. The most ancient is the Yuden hat with earmuffs and a semicircular protrusion that covers the neck, which was worn in inclement weather. Among the Buryats of the Baikal region, a headdress with a round top and a narrow line along the edge of the "Tatar mamai" (Tatar hat) was common. The "trapper" hat was also known here. Later they were replaced by a Kuban cap. The male suit was an indicator of the wearer's place in the official hierarchy. The clothes of commoners differed from the clothes of employees. "Ulus people" wore clothes made of cotton fabrics: dalyambs, soyombs. The right to wear silk and brocade was the privilege of the princes and the rich: the nobility wore clothes made of blue fabric. A dressing gown with the image of a dragon (embroidery, weaving) indicated the high position and origin of the wearer. A headdress with a high crown, with stones of blue, white, red colors distinguished the clerk's costume. Children of both sexes wore clothes similar to men's. A girl before marriage could wear such clothes with a belt. Women's clothing is characterized by a detachable waist - the camp consisted of a wide skirt and bodice, the sleeves were compound with puffs or straight without puffs. A married woman was not allowed to wear a belt. Women's costume by age, women changed with the transition from one age period to another, as well as with a change in her marital status. All this was accompanied by appropriate rituals. If before the period of maturity, the girl's clothes retained the cut of men's clothes, which they wore with a sash, then adult girls wore clothes cut off at the waist, but with sleeves that retained the cut of the sleeves of a man's robe. A decorative stripe went around the waist, for married women only in front. Complete with hair and jewelry, also corresponding to the social status, the outerwear of the girls differed from the costume of other age groups. In the outerwear of married women, some peculiarities were observed, based on details, in the principles of decorative design and execution technology. smart clothes young married woman in its full form distinguishes several local subtypes. The clothes of an elderly woman were distinguished by their simplistic forms and decorations. The appearance of dresses of European cut is one of the most noticeable phenomena in Buryat women's clothing in the 19th and early 20th centuries. But elongated "samsa" shirts in Transbaikalia and a dress made of straight fabrics on a yoke "Khaldai" existed in the Baikal region for a long time. According to the costume of the Buryats of the Baikal region, one can trace the territorial and tribal divisions: the costume of the Bokhan, Alar and Upper Lena Buryats, which can be attributed to Bulagats and Ekhirits. It is interesting to know that one of the distinguishing features is shoes.
1.2 The story of the ancient costume of the Ayuev family
In 1987, ethnographers from Ulan-Ude came to Zakhody to the Ayuev family. A rumor reached the capital of Buryatia that on the left bank of the Angara, in the old ulus Zakhody, a national costume was preserved, which is more than a hundred years old. Grandmother Anfisa, having lived in the world for 101 years, she left behind four children and grandchildren and, perhaps, most importantly, a good memory of a quivering feeling of love, wisdom, affection and caring hands. It was these hands that passed on to their descendants an amazing thing - degel of an old cut, the national winter clothes of Buryat women. At the end of the last century, this coat was presented to Anfisa for marriage by her mother. It was very elegant and therefore worn on certain solemn occasions. Maybe this is why the degal, having passed from Anfisa Andreevna after her death to her sister, and from her sister to her granddaughter Galina, still looks like new. But degel is already a century and a half - this is a truly rare thing. Polite visitors persuaded Galina Georgievna Ayueva to sell the family heirloom for a lot of money, but they left with nothing. The granddaughter of grandmother Anfisa could not sell the memory of her beloved grandmother, but she is always glad to send degal to exhibitions. Let the young watch how their great-grandmothers dressed in the old days. After all, this is the history and culture of our people. Time will pass and such clothes can only be seen in photographs and drawings. Therefore, it is worth dwelling in detail on the description of degel. Galina Georgievna Ayueva, the mistress of the old Buryat attire, told us about this. - Degal is outerwear for winter. It was sewn by my great-grandmother. Since then, the outfit has hardly been restored. It is hand-sewn from leather and fur. At the base is a long-haired lambskin, covered with a dark green plush, trimmed with decorative stripes: green and yellow Chinese silk and black velvet. Complemented with otter fur trim (halyuun). The coat is quite long and well protected from the steppe winds and severe frosts. Degel detachable along the waist line: consists of a bodice (seezhe), a wide hem (khormoy), which is pulled into a frill at the waist, and sewn-in sleeves (hamsa). A hupaahi (a flared sleeveless jacket made of plush) is worn over the coat. The sides do not converge at the front, the edges are trimmed with a colored strip of expensive fabric and silver coins are sewn to them. This coat was always complemented by a hat (marginal maegai) made of brocade and trimmed with halluun fur. The top of the cap is decorated with a tassel of twisted gold and copper threads (zala) and a silver coin is fixed on top.
Bella Fyodorovna Mushkirova (cousin of Galina Georgievna), told how arhan (sheepskin) was made, before sewing clothes, it was made in the following sequence:
1. Soaked in sourdough (yogurt) and left for 2-3 days.
2. Then they folded the sheepskin and left it for one day.
3. After that, they took a stick 30-40 cm long and 6-8 cm in diameter, the hind legs of the sheepskin were wrapped around this stick. And the side of the neck was attached to the wall on a special bar, and they began to twist, then in one direction or the other for 3-4 days.
4. Then they clasped the skin with their feet and removed the mezdra on their knees, using special devices gar hederge (a blunt, curved knife with two handles) and hul hederge. Sheepskin sounded after processing, i.e. rustled.
5. After dressing, the sheepskin was washed in water with the addition of a small amount of whey, and then wrinkled by hand while sitting in the sun in summer or by the stove in winter.
6. In a flock, they dug a hole about 50 cm deep and 20-30 cm in diameter, they put pine cones and dried manure there so that the fire would not burn, but smoke.
7. Then two skins were sewn together and placed over the fire in the form of a yurt. The skin was saturated with smoke, acquired a certain color, and only after that outerwear was sewn from it. Instead of thread, animal tendons were used, which were also dried and then divided into thin strips in the form of threads. All this painstaking work was done by women.
Conclusion
Life does not stand still, progress and civilization will slowly or quickly change our lives. Our language, our way of life, our clothes - everything changes with time. On the one hand, such a phenomenon is undeniable, everything in the world must change with time, develop, not stand still. On the other hand, in such a stream of new things, we are losing something memorable, dear and irreplaceable - our history and culture. And it depends only on us whether we can preserve our history, culture, the memory of our ancestors and pass it on to our descendants. Or set aside old covenants as an unnecessary echo of the past and continue our lives without support, without the help of our ancestors, without the richness and diversity of our culture.
Based on the tasks, I made the following conclusions:
1) The national Buryat costume has changed over time.
2) Varieties of the Buryat national costume were subject to social status.
3) The ancient national Buryat costume is a memory for descendants, in particular in the Ayuev family.
4) From the story about this costume, you learn about the hard work of peasant life.
Bibliography
1. Materials provided by the school museum corner.
2. Materials of the family archive of Ayueva G.G.
3. Materials of Internet resources: www.wikipedia.ru.
Appendix 1
Natasha Prikazchikova demonstrates a rare costume of the Ayuev family.
The Buryat national costume is part of the centuries-old culture of the Buryat people. It reflects its culture, aesthetics, pride and spirit. Buryat clothing was made by both women and men. The tailor had to have a lot of knowledge and skills, in particular, he was an artist and an embroiderer, glued and quilted, dressed skins, knew the ornament, colors.
Traditional Buryat men's clothing is presented in two types - degel (winter robe) and terlig (summer). Outerwear was straight back. The main material for winter clothing was sheepskin, which was edged with velvet and other fabrics. Everyday degel was covered with cotton fabric, and festive - with silk, velvet.
In turn, degels have two floors - upper (gadar hormoy) and lower (dotor hormoy), back (ara tala), front, bodice (seezhe), sides (enger). The men's dressing gown was usually sewn from blue fabrics, sometimes brown, dark green, and burgundy. The main decor of men's outerwear fell on the chest part of the upper floor (enger). The character of the design of the enger is stable, although there were elements of territorial and generic differences in it.
An obligatory attribute of a man's dressing gown were belts, various in material, manufacturing technique and size. The upper part to the waist is like a large pocket. In the deep bosom of their clothes, people kept a bowl in a soft case - in this way they ensured personal hygiene. At any time and in any yurt, you could use your own dishes for fragrant tea or rich broth.
The national clothes of the Mongols and Buryats are well adapted to the nomadic way of life. The length of the degel covers the legs both when walking and when riding, which does not allow the legs to freeze even in severe frost. The clothes are not only ideal for riding, but can also serve as an emergency bed - you can lie down on one floor and take cover on the other. There are about 400 types of degels, 20 types of national shoes and 10 types of belts.
Women's clothing (robe, sleeveless jacket) has age features, it strictly corresponds to the age of women, changes in accordance with the transition from one age to another and with a change in position in society, the family. Girls wore long terligs or winter degels, girded with cloth sashes that emphasized a thin, flexible waist. Everyday sashes were made of dalemba, and elegant ones were made of striped silk. At the age of 14-15, girls change their hairstyle and cut of the dress, which was cut off at the waistline, and the decorative braid of the tuuz closed the seam line around the waist in it. There was no sleeveless jacket in the girl's suit.
When getting married, girls braid two braids, in accordance with the rite uhe zahaha (“weaving hair”). To perform this ceremony, close relatives of the groom, bridesmaids gather. The hair is combed with the comb of the groom's mother, in contrast to the Russian ceremony, where, on the contrary, one female braid was braided from two girl's braids. The type of Buryat women's jewelry is designed for a pair of braids.
Women's wedding attire - degelei - is worn over the dress, leaving the front open, there was a slit at the back of the hem.
The outerwear of married women is cut off at the waist. Summer women's dressing gowns are most often sewn from blue fleece, the seam line is closed only in the front with decorative braid.
The clothes of older women are distinguished by the simplification of forms and decorations. Everyday robes are made of cheaper fabrics and dark shades, the sleeves are lighter than other outfits. A sleeveless jacket (Uuzha) that complements the outfit is an indispensable element of the costume of a married woman of all Buryat tribes and clans.
There are two types - short and long. A short sleeveless jacket (esegyn uuzha) ends at the waist line, this is due to the ancient Buryat custom, when a woman in the presence of men, especially her father-in-law, could only appear with her head and back covered, that is, in a cap and sleeveless jacket. Women used bright fabrics with deep armholes, a narrow back, and a straight slit in front.
Long-sleeved ouzhas are worn by Cis-Baikal Buryats in the Ekhirit-Bulagatsky, Kachugsky, Olkhonsky regions, Tunkinsky, Barguzinsky and Aginsky Buryats of Transbaikalia. Basically, for the manufacture of such a sleeveless jacket, a short version was taken, to which they sewed a tidy at the waist long skirt with a slit at the back. Such an uzha is used for riding and is called a morin uzha.
A lot is connected with sleeveless jackets interesting facts. So, in the time of Genghis Khan, the state regulated clothing and its colors. When cutting, the Mongols used a special measuring technique: by the color and quality of the fabric from which the clothes were made, it was possible to determine which class a person belongs to.
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The national clothing of the Buryats consists of a "dygil" - a kind of caftan made of dressed sheepskins, which has a triangular notch on the top of the chest, pubescent, as well as sleeves tightly clasping the hand brush, with fur, sometimes very valuable; in the summer, among some Buryats, the “dygil” is replaced by a cloth caftan of a similar cut.
In summer, dressing gowns are in great use, for the poor - paper, and for the rich - silk. The left floor was wrapped around right side and fastened on the side. The dressing gown was girded with a belt made of leather or fabric. In rainy times, a “saba”, a kind of overcoat with a long kragen, is put on over the dygil in Transbaikalia; and in the cold season, especially on the road - "daha", a kind of wide dressing gown, sewn from dressed skins, with wool outward. The dygil (degil) is pulled together at the waist with a belt sash, on which a knife and smoking accessories hang: a flint, a ganza (a small pipe with a short shank) and a tobacco pouch. The Buryats are big hunters before smoking, so everyone smokes, not excluding women and children.
The underwear - trousers and a shirt - are of Russian cut. Narrow and long trousers are made of roughly dressed leather (rovduga); the shirt, usually of blue daba, is not washed or removed from the majority of the population until it is worn out. Footwear consists of "unts", something like boots made of foal skins - or ordinary boots; in summer, in some areas, horsehair knitted shoes with leather soles are worn. Men and women cover their heads with a round gray hat with small brim and with a red tassel at the top. Men usually cut their hair short; some wear small braids, the lamaist clergy shave their heads.
Women's clothing is different from male jewelry and embroidery; so, the dogil of women is turned around with colored cloth, on the back - embroidery in the form of a square is made with cloth at the top and, in addition, copper and silver jewelry made of buttons and coins are sewn onto clothes. There are no such decorations in Transbaikalia; women's dressing gowns consist of a short jacket sewn to a skirt; Buddhist women who have taken a certain spiritual vow wear red cloth ribbons over their shoulders. The girl's costume is distinguished by the absence of "uji" (a kind of sleeveless jacket that all women must wear over a dygil) and a headdress - a hoop decorated with corals and silver.
The Buryats make especially great efforts to decorate their heads: in the absence of long natural hair, they are replaced by horsehair; married women braid their hair in 2 braids, often connecting them together with a metal ring; the ends of the braids are put into velvet covers, decorated with corals and silver, and go down to the chest; girls have braids from 10 to 20, decorated with many coins; Buryats wear corals, silver and gold coins around their necks. Huge earrings hang in the ears, supported by a cord thrown over the head, and “polty” (pendants) are visible behind the ears; on the hands are silver or copper “bugaks” (a kind of bracelets in the form of hoops), etc. All jewelry, and especially head jewelry, varies greatly in terms of wealth and place of residence
