Intarsia on the car. MK.
Here is an example of knitting with intarsia.
The easiest way, oddly enough, is to knit intarsia on the "Severyanka" and its analogues: a special carriage is not needed, it "digests" almost any thread (within a reasonable thickness, of course), In one row, you can use yarn of any composition and twist, as long as the thickness of it passed into the car. On "Neva-5" and other machines with an automatic threader, but without a special carriage, intarsia cannot be knitted, unless the design of the carriage provides for the possibility of switching it to the intarsia mode (this is stipulated in the instructions). With such knitting, we lay the threads on the needles manually, according to the pattern of the pattern, or as you wish (but then you can get a pattern as a masterpiece of abstraction).
When knitting on a machine with a special carriage for intarsia, you need to start work as usual. When we knit the fabric to the place where the pattern will begin, stop the carriage, remove the thread from the thread guide, put the carriage for intarsia on the side OPPOSITE to the one where the working thread is located. We pass the carriage along the needles and they themselves get into position for knitting intarsia.
1. We lay thread 1 on the required number of needles and lower it down
2. Take thread 2, wrap thread 1 around it with the tip
Here's how to cross the threads: 
3. And we knit manually 1 needle with thread 2
4. Leave the needle with the knitted loop in the PNP. We lay thread 2 on the required number of needles, wrap thread 3 around it, knit the first needle manually, leave the needle in the PNP, etc. to the end of the row. We collect the ends of all the threads in one hand, pull them a little harder than when knitting with one thread and knit with a carriage for intarsia.
When knitting intarsia, it is necessary to tighten the threads more than when knitting a weaving stitch, even with the same intarsia carriage, otherwise the loops at the junctions of two color spots will turn out to be weak, stretched, the fabric will look sloppy. A suitable tension must be tested on a sample before knitting. By the way, the density of knitting with an ordinary carriage and an intarsion carriage may well not coincide - this must also be checked on a sample and the density must be selected so that when switching from a satin stitch to intarsia and back, the border between them is not noticeable.
5. To knit the second row, take the first thread from the edge where the intarsion carriage is located, lay it on the required number of needles, lower the end of the thread between the needles. We wrap the second thread around the hanging end of the first, lay the thread 2 on the necessary needles and so on until the end of the row.
6. It is no longer necessary to advance the first needle with the thread of the second and subsequent colors into the PNP. We knit the second row. The threads after it get tangled, but it's not scary - when knitting the third row, when we twist them in the opposite direction, they will hang freely again.
They cling to each other only if the yarn is shaggy or strongly twisted (for example, cotton or viscose are often like this) - then, of course, you have to suffer. So that the balls do not interfere with each other in the process of work, I put several shoe boxes on the floor, if necessary, I make cardboard partitions in them and lay out the balls in them - each in its own compartment. When adding or subtracting the number of threads, the “twist-unwind” rhythm is also broken, but it is easy to restore it if the threads are untangled and the balls are re-arranged in boxes. There are special "slats with coils" for knitting intarsia, like these: 
7. If the pattern provides for a shift in the color border, then we lay the threads according to the scheme, for more or fewer needles.
When knitting with a thread of the same color ends, it must be cut off, leaving an end of about 10 cm - then it will need to be hidden on the inside with a needle or crochet hook.
That's it... try it.
Intarsia - colored areas
INTARCIA - colored knitting without broaches from the wrong side of the fabric, not limited by rapport.
In both hand and machine knitting, such a fabric is made from several balls of yarn at once, while the transition from one colored area to another is made directly at the contact border, and not by long broaches, as in ordinary jacquard.
Opening any magazine with knitted models, we see various products made using intarsia. So, how can we do this on a knitting machine?
It is generally accepted that such patterns are performed in two ways:
- Brother-940(electronic) and Inals IK-828 - this function is included in the carriage.
on machines with manual threading;
Of course, you can still just embroider colored areas on the finished canvas, but it is better to embroider small areas than large surfaces. Embroidery on the canvas will come in handy when we need to bring the pattern to full readiness.
If you have a machine with automatic or semi-automatic selection of needles, but there is no special carriage, this does not mean that you cannot make the product you like using the intarsia pattern. In this case, you can cheat a little.
Firstly, if the pattern consists of fairly clear geometric shapes (stripes, rhombuses, corners, circles), then such patterns can be made according to the principle of partial knitting. In this case, the pattern is divided into separate sections, which we knit by introducing and withdrawing needles into work in a certain sequence, moving from one section to another. Such a fabric can, and sometimes it is necessary, be knitted not only in the longitudinal direction, but also in the transverse or from the corner (diagonally).
Secondly, if the pattern is in the form of a motif or has fuzzy boundaries, i.e. partial knitting in this case is unacceptable, then you can perform such a pattern on top of the fabric in the style manual viving, laying the finishing thread under / above the needles and wrapping them around. In this case, you can use yarn unlimited in the number of colors and quality in the pattern. This method makes it possible to perform absolutely any product with any, even very complex pattern.
You can also try to knit in the same way as the intarsia carriage knits, i.e. with manual threading on open needles according to the pattern. To do this, remove the threads from the upper tensioner and place them on the floor. The carriage must knit the needles advanced into the PRP. Now, each time we will advance the needles in the PRP (position D) with a selective ruler, i.e. until the open tongue of the needle is at the outer edge of the needle bar (patterning position). All tongues of the needles must be open. We lay a working thread on the open needles, moving from the rack, and we sequentially introduce threads from individual balls into work so that each next “covers” the end of the previous one. When all the threads are laid, with one hand we will lightly hold the ends as the carriage advances so that the last loops of each section are well knitted. After passing the carriage, we must knit all the loops and return the needles to the RP, but this method can not be used on all models of machines.
Peculiarity intarsia carriages is that after knitting, she pushes all the needles back into the PRP, but we will do this manually before knitting each row. This process can be facilitated by a small additional carriage (P-carriage) that is attached to the Silver machines and a similar carriage (selector) may be found in some Bryzer models (usually in 3rd class cars).
Experiment with your machine, you may find an option to adjust the carriage to knit in this way without using a special carriage, although this will be a little longer in time.
In general, in this topic, we are not limited in our imagination. You can combine not only yarns of different colors and quality, but also the execution techniques themselves. In one product, large colored areas can be knitted in one way or another (carriage, partial knitting), supplemented with loop and free-style embroidery; decorate with various finishing elements made of fabric or crocheted etc. It is also possible to combine smoothly knitted colored areas with areas made by entwining needles, just do not forget that the front side will be the wrong side of the fabric.
Double-sided, in addition to the usual culinary surface and its derivatives, allows you to knit elastic bands and various patterns based on them.
Carriage intarsia - used for colored knitting. Here on your hands when you knit from several balls at once - the same process is on the machine using this carriage.
Openwork carriage allows you to knit openwork without manual decking. That is, in order to get a hole in the canvas, you need to take a decker (such a tool, a stick with a hole) - remove the loop, throw it on the next hook. And so in every "leaky" row, and more than once. So, if you are going to knit openwork often, then the carriage may come in handy.
Color changer - for multi-color patterns with automatic threading. Comfortable.
A device for punched cards - a hole punch in common parlance :) It is necessary for punching punched cards. Either their own or from directories. With such a device, you do not need to buy ready-made punched cards, it is economical and convenient, but not always necessary. In any case, it won't come in handy right away.
Computer machine - the pattern can be programmed for all 200 needles (in class 5 machines). It needs a program, a cable, and a permanent connection to a computer (laptop). Otherwise it makes no sense. For conventional models, a simple punched card is enough. It’s better to buy carriages for it :) And threads :)
In general, it’s good to buy a yarn winder right away with the machine - you definitely need it. A good winding is necessary for the uniform flow of threads into the machine. Often we take the threads in reels - thin, we have to wind the balls, so that later we can knit in 3-4 additions. Yes, and when rewinding, you can catch all the knots / bumps.
Still - a four-color plant would be nice. It is convenient to knit even banal stripes with front stitch with it. It changes the threads when the carriage passes, it clings to the hook there and the thread changes.
Spare needles, at least 10 pieces, because during training they break quite often.
Threads. For study wool mixture, winding 400 m/100 gr.
Everything else - you can buy later, as needed.
By car 5 class - 200 needles. Maximum canvas, cm 70. More - hardly. On threads 400 m / 100 g (average thickness for these machines), the approximate density is 3 p / cm. By simple division, we get 66 cm. You can thread a little thicker, but it won’t expand much :)
While all. Ask if anything. The topic is vast, it's hard to understand at once :) 04/16/2010 07:14:47 PM, Mams
1. Look at the link, it looks something like this. Each manufacturer has its own.
2. Again, it depends on the manufacturer. But Brother's often approach Silver.
3. The average thickness for a 5th grader is 400m/100 gr. In general, the range is from 200m-250/100g to 700-800m/100g. You can also use thicker yarn, through the needle, but the machine does not like this :) By the way, very thick yarn - the intarsia carriage knits quite acceptable. There the thread goes a simpler way, it does not get confused.
4. Imitation of crochet - hardly. But a thin light openwork is quite. Thin threads, and an openwork carriage - there will be a light canvas.
As for the choice of cars - look at Osinka or Broyderi.ru - there is such a Leonid. From somewhere, new Brothers periodically drop out from him. In general - yes, they really are not released anymore ...
Singers, Passups - alas, there will be no spare parts for them, the same needles, carriages and other things, and in the event of a breakdown or adjustment - a very big problem.
In reality, the new Silver Reed remains. Or used Brother. Or Browser via the Internet from trusted sellers. :)
In Brazer, openwork is knitted with two carriages - openwork and regular. That is, each row is traversed by two carriages. First one, then the second.
Silver has a special openwork carriage, the openwork is knitted for her alone. Therefore, you will have to buy it in addition to any car.
More. For a computer machine, all additional carriages cost 1.5-2 times more than for a punched card one. 17.04.2010 12:22:42,
for knitting large patterns with many colors in one row without broaches from the wrong side of the product. The thread is laid manually, the number of colors is unlimited.
Intarsia Carriage AG-20 Made in Japan Intarsia Carriage AG-24 Made in Cina
Carriage intarsia AG-20 Made in Japan Carriage intarsia AG-24 Made in China
Price AG-20: 125$ Price AG-24: 85$
Functionally, these two carriages are the same.
, the difference is only in the country of origin, we sell carriages
Intarsia Carriage AG-20 Made in Japan
, the price of which is higher carriage prices Intarsia Carriage AG-24 Made in Cina.
Instructions for the operation of the intarsia carriage AG-20
Intarsia carriage (AG20) - general view
A - Row counter switch (working position). If row counting is not required, the switch can be turned 90* by pulling the lever up slightly. On some models of machines, the row counter is located in the housing and, in order for the switch to work, an extension cord is installed on it (a small plastic sleeve B, glued to the inner surface of the carriage packaging).
C - spring lever for attaching the carriage to the needle bar.
D - carriage handle.
E - disk for selecting the indicator of knitting density.
F - pastina with movable rollers that press the fabric against the needle bed in the process of looping.
We work with the carriage on the needles of the main machine (rear needle bar) and perform the weaving surface (wrong side), while the yarn is fed to the needles manually.
To pre-set the needles for work, you can additionally use the P-carriage.
Preparation for work (AG20)
We will preliminarily tie a control sample and perform all the necessary calculations. Moreover, I recommend that you make a separate sample with an intarsia carriage, if it is used on a certain section of the canvas, because. the actual density of the canvas with the same indicators on different carriages (main and intarsia carriage) may turn out to be different.
Starting the intarsia pattern, remove the working thread from the thread guide of the main carriage and the upper thread holder and place it on the floor in front of the machine. Remove the main carriage from the needle bar and install the intarsia carriage:
on the opposite side of the working thread (needles are in position RP - B);
on the side where the working thread is located, but then we start working with a small P-carriage.
We will draw once with an intarsia carriage or a P-carriage (because of laying the thread) in order to transfer the needles of the working area to the PRP (position C).
We hang flat edge weights along the edge of the canvas.
Prepared for work with the intarsia carriage.
Due to the fact that the main machine (rear needle bar) Silver is not equipped with a special pull comb, all parts and fabrics must be started with a set of loops on two fonturas.
If the details of the product are decorated with an elastic band or a strap / inlay, then first we perform the necessary design, then we transfer all the loops from the front needle bar to the back one and then we prepare the machine to work with the intarsia carriage (see above).
If the product is made of thick yarn and the edge of the fabric is decorated with a technique "winkel" (a set of loops on the needles of one fontura with a twist), then we start with a preliminary set of loops on two fontures with an auxiliary thread. Then, after fixing the pull comb, we drop all the loops from the front needle bar and knit a few more rows of auxiliary thread on the needles of the back needle bar, 1 row on square 10 with a slippery bobbin thread. After that, we push all the needles of the working area forward (the loops of the auxiliary fabric remain on the needles) and perform a set of loops with a working thread. Next, you can work with an intarsia carriage.
In the event that we use the intarsia carriage to make vertical cuts from the edge of the fabric, then we do everything that was described above, but we will make a set of loops with a working thread from several balls.
"Winkel" or a set of loops with a twist
A set of twisted needles with a working thread, the most common in machine knitting and is performed on any machine.
A set of loops with a twist (execution)
We push the needles of the working area all the way forward (PNP), the carriage is on the right.
At the end of the working thread, you can make a loop and put it on the leftmost needle, or you can not make a loop, just hold the end of the thread with your left hand.
With the right hand, moving counterclockwise, we wrap each needle with a working thread, moving from left to right, while with the left hand we correct the loops and, slightly pressing the thumb or forefinger against the fonture, we set some slack so that the typesetting does not turn out too tight. The last needle on the right can not be wrapped around
In some machines, the pull comb can be hung directly on the initial (twisting) row (Brother), in others it is better to knit one row from right to left first, and then hang the pull comb (Toyota).
The set can be performed from left to right and from right to left, and also not on each needle, but through one.
Using the winkel set at work
This method of casting on machine needles is very versatile and is used everywhere. The edge is quite elastic and easy to process.
Sometimes, a cast-on row can replace open loops, because. such a row can be put on the needles of the machine again and knitting can be continued. To do this, the canvas is turned over and with a decker, picking up the bows of the typesetting row, they are put on the working needles. The same principle is used when making plank folds.
Also, the twist set is used when adding several loops in the knitting process.
"Winkel" can be used to make a decorative edge if the set is made with a thick thread. For example, a working thread in 4 additions, and a set is made with a thread of 8-12 additions or a finishing thread (mohair, velor, etc.)
Work with carriage intarsia (AG20)
Let's say the working thread is on the left side of the machine, the intarsia carriage is also on the left side, the needles of the working area are advanced in the RRP (C), the needle tabs are open.
We put more skeins of yarn on the floor and fix the end of each on the needle with which the colored section begins.
On open needles, we lay a working thread with our hand so that each next one “wraps around” the previous one (from left to right).
At the same time, the thread from the extreme needle of the colored area is released vertically to the skein.
It is best to place the skeins in a shoe box, which is divided into sectors with cardboard boxes. In this case, the coils are located in the sequence in which they are put into operation. After knitting the next row, the box can be unfolded to change the sequence of colors.
With your free hand, you can lightly press the ends of the threads to the needle bar so that the outer needles do not drop the loops.
Let's move the carriage from left to right - the carriage knitted all the needles in sequence and again pushed them into the PRP.
When the carriage moves from left to right, we also lay the yarn sequentially from left to right.
When the carriage moves from right to left, the yarn is also laid from right to left.
Additional information (AG20)
In the process of work, it is possible to perform sections of the culinary surface without using several colors, i.e. work with only one primary color.
We leave at the end of each colored section a sufficient end of the working thread, so that we can then fix it and hide it.
We continue knitting with only one color, each time laying the thread in the direction of movement of the carriage on all the needles of the working area.
The intarsia carriage can be used to make vertical cuts on parts made with a satin stitch (as well as colored horizontal stripes, corrugations, etc.).
In this case, we use several skeins of the main thread for work, but when laying the threads on the needles of the machine, we do not “swing” in the place intended for the cut so that a hole remains.
When working with thick yarn, we do not forget about the loads that need to be distributed evenly.
